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BT phone socket.
This is a discussion on BT phone socket. within the Cabling and faceplate help forums, part of the Sky Broadband help and support category; Ok people, a huge thank you to everyone who had helped me here. I think I know what I'm doing ...
- 25-07-11, 11:41 AM #71
Ok people, a huge thank you to everyone who had helped me here.
I think I know what I'm doing now!
The hardest and most time consuming part of the job will be getting the skirting boards up and back on!
You guys have given me more help and information than both sky and BT combined over the last 12 months!
- 25-07-11, 12:04 PM #72
Re: BT phone socket.
Tip, depending on the run you can use the old cable as a pull cord, just make sure old & new are taped together WELL and do not pull too hard!! Good luck.run-IT-direct, For all your networking, ADSL & telecom requirements.
- 25-07-11, 03:32 PM #73
Re: BT phone socket.
No need to mess with skirting. I'll post a little suggestion in a minute.
- 25-07-11, 05:08 PM #74
Re: BT phone socket.
Valiceemo, how about this?:
1. After marking position at multimedia area where you would like to place the master box then measure distance between this point and (going up and over the door) the junction box. Allow an extra metre of cabling.
2. Order the parts after deciding which master box arrangement you want from the options suggested in Isitme's shopping list. Not forgetting cable clips.
3. In the meantime, there is plenty of reading material on this forum relevant to those parts.
4. Armed with suitable tools and the new parts, here is a suggested plan of attack:
a) Check cable length is correct. Then, starting at the junction box end, route and fix cabling along skirting top and up and around the door opening. Aim to leave several inches more extra cable than what would actually be needed to reach the terminals in both the master and junction boxes.
b) If not already done, then cut red and black wires where they enter the terminal block which is top right of junction box. remove screw from centre of back plate and carefully let the back plate hang over the skirting still attached to the orange and white wires. If possible, using a pair of pliers, carefully grip the wide white flex containing the wires you just cut and see if you can pull it gently upwards at all and then cut the flex as close to the top of the skirting as possible (this will allow flex to 'shrink' back down behind skirting after being cut). Be ultra careful not to cut any other wires. If you could gently slide a thin piece of plastic card or similar behind the flex to be cut then that might be an idea to protect the other wires. At this stage you should have discovered how much actual BT wire length you have to play with - espescially the orange, which looked as though it could possibly be short.
c) Fit new junction and master boxes to wall.
d) Connect one wire from the CW1308 cable to the A terminal and the other wire to the B terminal at the top rear of the NTE5 front cover. Attach the corresponding wire to the corresponding A and B points in the junction box. Make sure you leave some slack on the wires you connect, by measuring to the terminals but make the connection at a point in the cable a couple of inches further on. Have a read on how to actually make IDC connections (the metal jaw-like connections found on the back of your existing master and junction box. On no account should a tool be used to insert wires into an IDC joint which is at all likely to spread or deform those jaws - I think you will see signs of this damage in your junction box. (Probably in your master too - I'll have another look at that pic). If you want, you could probably have a dry-run using the existing master IDC connections to practice on - if not murdered, that is.
e) In the new junction box will be a screw block the same as to which the BT orange and white wires are still connected. Disconnect either the orange or white wire and connect it to the corresponding screw block location in the junction box. Then move the remaining wire likewise.
f) leave front cover off junction box and lower front half of NTE5 and test the connection so far using the internal test socket of the NTE5. If satisfied, fit filtered faceplate to NTE5 if you bought one. If not, replace lower front of NTE5 and fit dangly type filter if you decided to by one of those instead. Test this setup. If satisfied, fit cover to junction box and final test.
g) Make tea, or drink beer as required.
The above is just a suggestion and is roughly how I would go about it. If it were me though I would go with a filtered faceplate anyway, apart from anything else because I can't be doing with the dangly - it's not very elegant.
I wouldn't mess with the skirting - it's unnecessary work. And, not much point in trying to pull the new cable through the skirting void either as you still need to get accross from the site of the present master to the multimedia area where you want the new master to be. Plus there is always the risk of damage to the new cable.
This is one approach. If anyone notices any errors or room for improvement then please advise.
Let us know how it goes.
Btw, I'll look at the pics again, but I guess a possible regarding the wiring history could be something like this: Home-improvements possibly not limited to plastering after which opportunity was taken to lay wiring at void at floor level below plaster level before fixing skirting. Ditto doorway area DIY allows for undiscovered wire length in this area. As I say, just a possible scenario.
Edit: I suppose I should say that the above comment is based on the junction box being set deeper than the plaster (does not look rebated - and besides, why would you rebate anyway?). The plaster looks to butt up to the box. Also, there is that sectiion of material to the right cut to accommodate the box. I also get the feeling that the area where the patio door is may have had some DIY at the same time. Could be completely barking up the wrong telegraph pole here, but..........
Last edited by Giskard; 25-07-11 at 10:14 PM. Reason: typo
- 25-07-11, 06:20 PM #75
I've ordered parts, including new junction box, NTE5 socket and filtered faceplate.
Skirting has to come off, keep it tidy. I can't be doing with wires on show. Like everything hidden away.
- 25-07-11, 07:23 PM #76
Re: BT phone socket.
Skirting does not have to come off to loose the old wires. You have a good chance of either pushing the wires down out of sight behind the skirting or at least, if there is not much give, you could pull the old flex upward carefully and cut it while it is under tension - this would cause the old flex to 'shrink' back down below the top level of the skirting.
I would be extemely surprised if you could not get rid of enough cable so it is no longer visible. You might even be surprised to find that all it actually needs is a gentle poke to make it dissapear dissapear completely down behind the skirting - seriously Then you just have to make good (if required) where the old flex was.
Ok, looking at the pics again, you should have no problem regarding being able to loose the old flex at the junction box. There seems to be a bit of a cavity there but the junction box sits basically on top of the skirting anyway. So, (a) you almost certainly will be able to push it down out of sight after first cutting as close as practical to the top of the skirting, and (2) once the cover is back on the box you won't see much of anything anyway.
As for the other end, although the old cable is likely to be tighter here, you can still 'disappear' evidence of old flex entirely from sight (and of course you can get a bit more physical here, unlike back at the junction where you have to be more restrained in your efforts). Again, try pulling the cable up with a pair of pliers. Give it a fairly good pull, then use a stanley-knife with it's blade flat on top of the skirting to cut through the flex back to the wall. If the the cable will not push or 'shrink' back far enough, then get jiggy with it. Try tapping it down with a hammer and suitable rod. If not, use the stanley knife to cut down into the flex at an angle and cricumcise the bugger. You don't need to loose that much after all.
No way I'd even think about removing the skirting - it's just aggro, and it should be possible (I'd pretty much guarantee) that you can dissapear old flex without needing to start giving yourself and the skirting a hard time
- 25-07-11, 08:05 PM #77
Re: BT phone socket.
I guess I'd better say that apart from where I mentioned use of stanley-knife, that side-cutters should obviously be used elsewhere instead.
- 25-07-11, 08:09 PM #78
It's not the old flex that wants hiding, it's the new telephone wire.
Neither me nor the Missis like wires on show.
Plus the wire needs to go from one room to another and we have tiled flooring so it's not a case of tucking it under the carpet.
- 25-07-11, 08:23 PM #79
- 25-07-11, 08:35 PM #80
Re: BT phone socket.
It is hard to be 100% sure from this end, but on the face of it I would say that the skirting board should be strong enough to withstand a gentle prising off, providing it was nailed in place, not put there with 'No Nails Glue'.
I would be tempted to wire everything up BEFORE pulling the skirting board out though, just to be sure that everything works fine.
It sounds like you're going to have a busy weekend.
There is a video somewhere on YouTube that someone posted a link to on this site. This would certainly help you to have some idea about what to do. Unfortunately I've just spent about half an hour looking for it and failed.
The most important thing is NOT to bare the actual copper wire, like you would for a screw connection.
Check out these links:
Using an IDC Tool : Installing an ADSL faceplate splitter
TELEPHONE SOCKET WIRING - HOW TO DO IT
Guide to rewiring internal UK phone wiring
Some of the above links discuss connecting all 6 wires. This is unnecessary and actual will degrade your connection. You only need to worry about pins 2 & 5. The last link has a very comprehensive guide too.
PlusNet Fibre since Jan 2021
Previously Sky Fibre & Sky BB since 2010.